Remember the scene in Apocalypse Now when Martin Sheen finally locates Marlon Brando, his PT boat cruising down the quiet and misty stream toward that eerie group of zombie-like indigenous tribes people? Well, the only thing my journey had in common with that classic but uncomfortable Vietnam War film was that they were both set in the beautiful Philippine landscape. And this time the Filipinos weren’t just extras in a movie.
I accompanied Bryan Martin, our Field Director, and Teng Candelaria, our Team Leader, to a Bible Study a couple of days ago. I was just getting comfortable in Manila commuting 45 minutes through the most horrendous traffic in the world just to get to meetings only 5 kilometers away. Now there I was, boarding a rickety fishing boat at the edge of a swamp.
And when I say rickety, I’m talking about a wooden canoe with water sloshing at my feet, it’s long arms skimming the water for balance and strapped together by nylon wire, the whole thing held intact by EPOXY glue. Its motor was probably built to push a recreational 4-seater vessel, the ones that can get a couple of old, fat guys to the middle of a small lake in Montana to do some lazy fishing. The boat I was on could transport close to 15 people plus half a dozen bags of rice.
The engine sounded just like the CH-46 Sea Knight helicopters I used to ride around in, hence my flashbacks of war movies set in Asia. And though the waters were a bit calmer that day, the rainy season waves reminded me of the bumpy helo rides I was accustomed to. Snaking our way through the swamp was like boarding a boat in Disneyland’s iconic Jungle Cruise, complete with the smart-aleck conductor. The sounds of wildlife were deafening and I was probably the only one that noticed the crazy bird squawks, insect vibrations and random animal squeals. It was music to my ears, my real life jungle adventure.
The brown muddy waters of the Mississippi weren’t as dark as the ones we were traveling through. But after going a good 10 minutes upstream toward the Pacific and out of the swamp, the waters abruptly turned blue…as in aqua, “Blue Lagoon” blue. Breath taking! Then another 15-20 minutes as we neared land the ocean transformed into a striking, emerald green blanket floating in the wind. The tiny island of Panay was getting larger. And as most islands do, the center of the land mass slowly rose, low lying mountains covered in its own sea of palm trees and other foliage.
In the near distance, several tall plumes of white smoke rose into the sky from within the jungle, garbage and leaves burning themselves away. I could see a bunch of children running alongside the shore, chasing each other and jumping in and out of other fishing boats. The motor idled down and eventually the only sound we could hear was the lapping of water on the shore and against the boat.
The missionaries off-loaded first. Unlike Manila, dozens of kids didn’t swarm around the white man, supposedly rich because of his Western origins. Bryan didn’t have food, money, toys and other treasures to give out. The children continued playing, but waved in joy to acknowledge the people who brought to them, for the first time, a much more valuable treasure, the Word of God.
Several of the boatmen followed us as we found a trail leading to the main walkway. We walked in between huts constructed with palm leaves, bamboo chutes, and plain old wood, all set upon cement foundations. We even pushed through wet, fragrant lines of laundry. This particular barrio was nestled at the foothills of the mountainous terrain that occupied the center. The beautiful palm trees, “clean” red dirt, manicured grass (due to grazing caribou), and breezy afternoon made for a comfortable time of hanging out. Everyone greeted in excitement (unlike the tribespeople in Apocalypse Now) and many began calling their neighbors out loud notifying them that it was time to study the Bible.
We sat next to one of the leaders of the community. For half an hour Bryan, Teng and the leader talked about local residents, the welfare of the people, politics, fishery, agriculture and thieves. Close by, the group gathered anxiously awaiting to begin.
Years ago, when World Team missionaries were told by a local pastor that there was an island with hundreds, maybe thousands of inhabitants that had yet to hear the Gospel, they jumped on it. Faithfully, year after year and week after week, they made the trip to this coastal town to show the people love and to teach them about God until a house church or “simbaray” was ultimately formed.
I finally took my seat in the group and immediately, one of the wives of the boatmen began the fellowship. She opened with an introduction and after a time of prayer one of the ladies led everyone in several worship songs, one of which she wrote herself. Then one of the boatmen continued by instructing us what passage of scripture we would be going through that day. Spontaneously and randomly, members of the group read the assigned passages. The boatman asked questions pertaining to the passage and everyone answered, even the men who had a thick presence (a rarity in church culture around the world). This continued for the bulk of the time we were there. Afterward, the boatman’s wife asked if anyone had anything that needed praying for. Then we all prayed.
The townsfolk of Babaguan don’t know what a church building is, what a pulpit looks like or what it means for only a few, select people to participate during a worship gathering. They study Scripture, live out the Gospel and experience a life of joy and abundance in the midst of freeing poverty on an island so remote that the only way to get there is by boat.
Later that afternoon we traveled back through the beautiful Philippine waters with the boatmen. Their timidity and servitude hid their true leadership abilities. They joined us for a leader’s meeting in the evening along with about 20 other residents in charge of house churches all over the region. At just past midnight, when the meeting was coming to a close, I remember looking at the missionaries, smiling and joking in their 3rd language, perfectly content with the adventure God had placed them in the farthest reaches of the Philippines. If ever the APOCALYPSE were to happen…let’s say NOW for instance, these Filipinos know exactly where they’ll be…in Jesus’ loving arms.









